Walking Across Italy

Today we hiked about 13 miles and my Apple watch recorded 28,000 steps and over 4.5 hours of exercise activity. The terrain was more moderate today, rising only 1,800 feet or the equivalent of 33 flights of stairs.

Sour Milk

Last night we had reserved only 3 rooms at a B&B. Since we got to our destination early, Stephen had the great idea to see if we could reserve another room at the local (2 star) hotel. As luck would have it, there was a room, so I volunteered to take it. As a result, when we arrived at the B&B, the owner got very upset that we were only 3 people, not 4. She told Stephen, “but I already made the 4th bed!”. (Like this was a Herculean effort!) I found out later that she told Joe that he was “forbidden from sleeping in that bed”. Since I was staying elsewhere, I quickly made an exit and took my luggage to my (very sad) hotel. (Actually, she slammed the door as I left.)

Stephen also didn’t realize that he had contracted for 4 dinners along with the 3 rooms, so as I was leaving, she told me to be back at 7 pm for dinner. I had no intention of returning, given her “sour”disposition. However, after several pleas from JP and Stephen, I decided that “for the sake of my friends”, I would return to the house of horrors.

Our abusive hostess served us several plates of French “comfort” food for dinner. This consisted of a creamy vegetable soup (very good), grilled sausage with a blue cheese sauce (nice, but a weird combination), au gratin potatoes (the highlight of the dinner), a plate of several local cheeses, and a chilled “fromage frais” with caramel sauce and miniature nutmeg cookie. (The sour attitude of our hostess, also thawed a bit during dinner as we “fell over ourselves” with compliments to the chef. In truth, everything was tasty, but not the elevated cuisine that we enjoyed the night before.

This morning, my friends couldn’t wait to leave that establishment. But we did take a photo with the owners before we left. (I’m thinking of posting her picture on the Most Unwanted board at the Post Office.)

Fresh Milk

As we neared our 2 hour mark on the hike, Stephen declared that we could stop for coffee. We had seen signs for a small coffee spot only 50 yards away. The small central courtyard was beautifully appointed and surrounded by an old stone house and barn.

Stephen found the 40-something proprietor and ordered some soft drinks and 2 cups of coffee. The soft drinks came out fast from the refrigerator, but the cafe au lait required the owner to heat the milk. After several minutes the owner discovered that the milk from yesterday had curled and he needed more. So, he went out to the barn AND MILKED THE COW until he had enough for the coffees. Now that’s what I call Fresh Milk!

Speaking of cows, I learned something new about dairy farming today . We walked by a lot of green pastures with big brown cows. As we passed by, I saw a giant red dot on a cow’s butt. What is that?, I said.

Juan Pablo had the answer, of course. As a graduate of the University of Vermont, he had spent 4 years around a lot of dairy farms. He explained that dairy farmers attach small paint ampules to the rear ends of their female cows. When the cow is in heat, other female cows try to mount them and crush the ampules leaving a big dot. Then the farmer knows that it is time to inseminate that cow. Crazy huh?

Servant Leadership

The day ended with a surprising picture. Our dear “travel leader” (or Reisefuhrer in german) served us a congratulatory beer and the end of the day. What a guy!

See you tomorrow.