Walking Across Italy

Today is Sunday, October 15th, 2023. It is time to say farewell to the Camino and put this adventure in the history books.

We decided to end this journey at the Cathedral where St. James ( Sant Iago) is burried. There was a pilgrim’s mass at 9:30 this morning, which allowed us to get a little extra sleep than previous mornings. We wondered how many pilgrims would actually show up, and were surprised by the multitudes. When we arrived at 9:20, every seat was taken. There must have been close to a thousand people in that church.

Interestingly, there were people of all ages (young and old), all economic classes, and from all corners of the earth. It was truly a testament to the appeal of the Camino and the Catholic Church. The mass was said in Spanish (so I only caught every fourth word), but I was struck by the remarkable consistency of this ritual. The prayers, the sequence if events, the music, the responses, were all the same as what I have experienced in the United States. The only thing that was different -and I mean REALLY different – was a special incense ceremony at the end of the mass.

Unbeknown to me, this cathedral is home to the largest Botafumeiro (incense burner) in the world. It is a giant silver container (about 5 feet tall) weighing over 115 lbs.! During mass, it was hanging over the alter like a chandelier. In fact, that’s what I thought it was! But then, several burley men grabbed the rope it was attached to, and lowered it to the ground. A priest poured some incense in and it began to smoke. As the smoke increased, the team of men pulled it into the air in unison, like Quasimoto and the bells if Notre Dame. Another man guided it across the altar so that it began swinging across the church. Higher and higher. Faster and faster. The silver container flew across the heavens releasing its tail of white smoke. It reminded me of a Circ du Soleil performance where acrobats flew across the stage with wild abandon. I have to say, it was a mesmerizing spectacle!

We departed the cathedral and made one more pass through the plaza. We found the shell marker which signifies the end point of all of the Caminos which run through Santiago de Compostela. We took one final picture to mark our accomplishment.

We spent the rest of the day reminiscing about our experiences along the Camino Portuguese. But I don’t think the stops are the lasting impression, they are just a catalyst for the camaraderie, fellowship, and friendship you feel along the way. I feel so privileged to have spent the last 15 days with some wonderful guys. Joe, whose impending wedding to Emily illustrates that you can find love later in life. (Don’t worry Lisa, I already found you.) Juan Pablo, who never met a stranger that he couldn’t talk to (in several languages). And Stephen, whose dry wit and leadership kept us on track throughout the journey. Thanks guys, for making my life a little richer, a little fuller, a little better. You are the best Old Age Ninja Turtles I know.