Things go better with Coke

Today was supposed to be one of the most challenging stages of our 12-day journey to Assisi. While the distance was manageable (18 km – 11 miles) the terrain was rated as “very demanding” and the forecast for rain would make it even worse. So we prepared for the worst, and had one of the best days.

Leaving Rieti expecting rain.

First, the weather forecast was very wrong. Instead of rain, we had loads of sunshine, but moderate temperatures, and a strong breeze. The word for breeze in Italian is “venticello”, and today it was cooling and strong. At one point, Stephen and I stood at the top of a hill, spread our arms, and pretend we were flying. (I hear Volare in the background.)

Waiting to take off into the breeze

Second, this hike took us around the side of several hills and mountains. As a result, the vistas were spectacular.

Cantalice for lunch

Next, we met a lot of other pilgrims walking the St. Frances trail. The most important was a lady from Germany who was going to spend the night at the St. Frances convent (La Forest). While, she only walked with is for a few km, she insisted that we all stop and view one of the oldest chapels in Europe. We never would have stopped if it wasn’t for her, and the visit was such a treat.

The pilgrims you meet along the way. Rhomie and the boys.
Entrance to Cappuccini Chapel
Juan Pablo on the kneeler OUTSIDE the chapel, but with a view inside. Clever.
Inside the chapel there was room for about 8 people.
Rhomie was staying here.

At the 12 km mark, we had a wonderful lunch in the hilltop town of Cantalice.

Antipasti
Beans and boar in a tomato sauce. (Amazing)
Pappardelle pasta with boar

I am not a Coke drinker. I haven’t had one in probably 15 years. But, Juan Pablo reintroduced it to me and now I am hooked. Nothing gives me a burst of energy like this stuff. It has become my favorite lunchtime pick me up.

We finally made it to Poggio Bustone around 5pm. The last mile was straight uphill, like an elevator shaft. When we reached the top, we found ourselves in the middle of a funeral service. We respectfully waited for poor Franco’s coffin to depart before we found our way to our separate b&b’s.

My b&b was excellent. There was a problem with the one I booked, so my hostess asked her nephew if I could use his. It was definitely an upgrade for the original price of 36 Euros. Grazie Sergio.

The view from my kitchen window in Poggio Bustone

The last thing I want to tell you, is that after 5 days of hiking, I have developed a ritual. I wash the dirty clothes that I have worn for the day, before going to dinner. Where do I wash? The bathroom sink of course. Then, I let them dry overnight. If they don’t dry, I use the blowdryer. It works pretty well. Buona notte.

The rinse cycle

4 responses to “Things go better with Coke”

  1. Great post Pete. Your photos of vistas and intimate settings and food are all compelling. Now you’re 1/3 the way there, and just settling into your groove. I can’t wait for your email notice everyday. Thank you for the effort of writing these when you must be exhausted.

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    1. It’s now Day 8. I’ll be ready for our virtual walk after this trip!!

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  2. LInda &Peter Beuret Avatar
    LInda &Peter Beuret

    You didn’t put in a plug for Tide working well on sweaty t-shirts!! We follow you and the meals with great interest.

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    1. I hope Hanz is on the mend and this brings him some joy.

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